Monday, October 29, 2007

Sakura Steam information

I am being very indulgent with this Sakura Steam thing, but well, it is my blog and this is my 5 minutes of fame, so why not?

The WanCup organizers have put up a page explaining (in Japanese) about the beer. It contains a link to an order form, which you can see directly by clicking here.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Sakura Steam Beer by Loco Brewing

I have it on pretty good authority that the beer made by Loco Brewing using my Wan Cup 2006 winning recipe is on sale at Ushi Tora (Shimokitazawa) at the moment. With any luck it might last a few days, but I believe they only have a few kegs and that will be it. So if you make a special trip, it might be better to call ahead to be sure. It is the one listed on the blog as "3, さくらスチームラガー(千葉)NEW!" (Sakura Steam Lager(Chiba) NEW!")

For directions to Ushi Tora, please click on this link to my "My Tokyo" Google Map. Click on the blue marker for directions and zoom in for a more detailed map.

If you try it, please let me know what you think.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Minoh Beer

Opps, sorry, I must have dozed off. But it's time for another post.

As reported in Brews News, there is an Osaka Exhibition in the Tokyu Department store above Shibuya Station (8th floor of the west section). In among the chaff of okonomi-yaki and taco-yaki vendors there is a wee gem in the form of a booth from Minoh Beer of Osaka. I had occasion to pop in last night and try a couple of their wares.

The verdict is that their 9% DIPA (or WIPA as they were calling it, since in Japan W=double, get it?) is damned good. Damned good! As good or better than any of the rich, caramelly, highly hopped American micro-brew inspired ales you might have tried in your beery adventures. I talked to the brewer and she told me that the hops are all Perle and Cascade, which is interesting. It was certainly a very smooth bitterness and perfectly balanced. Reminded me of a Baird Red Rose Amber Ale on steroids or Dogfish head 90 minute IPA, which I once had the good fortune to try.

I tried the real-ale stout after that and it was insipid by comparison. I should have had them in the reverse order. It was a fine beer, smooth and dry with with subtle roast. But being much lower in body, flavour and overall bang-for-buck, I had to have another WIPA after that to send me on my way. They also had a pilsener and a weizen on tap, but it was simply not the right time or place.

I also snaffled a sip from a fellow-drinker of the Cabernet Ale. It was certainly very grapey, somewhat tart and sweet at the same time. I won't pretend that I would actually enjoy drinking this, but it is an interesting hybrid in the true sense of the word. My own feelings are that if you want beer, drink beer, if you want wine, drink wine. Old fashioned and fuddy-duddy you could call me. I am also a fruit beer sceptic with the exception of well-made lambics. But fruit infusions in regular pale ale's and the like invariably leave me underwhelmed. The fruit is usually a distraction more than anything else. Still, each to their own.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Steam Brew Day at Loco Brewery

So we brewed the Sakura Steam at Loco Brewery on Saturday August 25th and the beer is in the fermenter and the yeast is doing its thing. It was a pretty long day. I left home at 7 am and arrived back at 10 pm. In between I got to hang out in a brewery for the day and pretend I was being useful. It was hot outside, but it was hotter in the brewery. And steamier. Much steamier. Certainly showed the non-glamorous side of brewing. Rather than give a long detailed gory account, I think I'll just post a few pictures to commemorate the occasion.


Our chief brewer for the day, Loco Brewery's Momoyo Nittoh.






Visiting Aussie home brewer, Andrew Walsh (berapnopod) and Momoyo-san discussing tactics.






Momoyo-san stirring the mash.







Momoyo-san and brew lackey (aka her husband Koh-ichi) discussing the gravity of a sample in relation to whether it is yet time to stop the sparge.





The boil is underway. It is a steam heated mash tun/boiler.










Nerdy home brewer whose recipe was being brewed making one of the six hop additions. (Hops used were Northern Brewer, Amarillo and a touch of Cascade.)



Shit, you have to work?

That there is the lauter tank being cleared.






Yay, there goes the yeast!!
(Not the regular San Francisco Lager either, folks. Lager, yes, but think Germany.)


Let's hope we have something worth drinking in five or six weeks time.

Monday, August 20, 2007

Cervesa Japonica brews...

Sorry, it has been a long time between drinks, what with marathon training and a few other things crowding out my ability to do justice to ferreting out and presenting information about Japan craft beer.

This is just a quick post to highlight the fact that I will be finally getting to brew my Yokozuna (Grand Champion) beer at Loco Brewery in Chiba this coming Saturday (8/25).

The background for this dates back to when my California Common (Sakura Steam) won the Best of Show at the 2006 WanCup homebrewing competition. The first prize included getting a 5 HL batch of the recipe made at Loco Brewery, of which I get to keep sixty 345 mL bottles. I'll try to get a few photographs on the day and post about the experience here next week. Looking forward to it immensely.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Ushi Tora & Baird Four Sisters Spring Bock

Tokyo has only a handful of bars devoted to showcasing Japanese craft beer. Two of them are located within spitting distance of one another in Shimokitazawa, a cool and trendy little neighbourhood about 5 minutes from Shibuya on an Inokashira express train.

On Friday evening I visited one of these bars, Ushi Tora. I was pleasantly surprised at the relatively small size and cosy atmosphere. But it was impressive that they had some 23 beers on tap, plus three on hand pump. It seemed to be very quiet considering it was Friday night -- an undiscovered gem? The master was knowledgeable and available, but gave us plenty of time and space to make our selections.

I am always eager to try any of the seasonal offerings from Baird Beer (Shizuoka), and was intrigued to see both a Scottish 60 shilling and "spring" bock on the menu. My friend ordered the 60 shilling only for the keg to blow. I ordered a pint of the spring bock and had more luck.

I hadn't twigged to the fact that "spring" bock meant it would be a helles or maibock and was expecting a dark coloured beer. So I was initially surprised when this palish beer arrived. But my synapses re-connected and I thought, hmm OK, this could be interesting. In the end, it turned out to be a superb beer. I'd maybe even go so far as to say it was the best beer I have ever had from Mr. Baird, and that is saying a lot!

Tasting notes
Appearance
Deep gold, brilliantly clear, thin white persistent head 4.5/5
Aroma
Malt, faint suggestions of tropical fruit or honey 8/10
Flavour
Rich malt, honey, balanced by slightly more spicy hop bitterness than you'd expect, but it worked to add complexity, alcohol warmth, all in superb balance 18/20
Mouthfeel
Full bodied without being cloying, aftertaste that goes on and on and on 5/5
Overall impression
A knockout. 9/10
Total: 44.5/50

I also had a pint of Iwate IPA. The Spring Bock stayed with me though the glass, but the IPA held its own. I should also note that both beers were served at perfect temperature and with only just enough carbonation to keep the beer fresh and pushed out of the keg. In other words, perfect. Overall, a very enjoyable couple of beers in a setting to which I can see myself returning.

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Brown Beer Fest, 14-15 April, The List in English

Big tip of the hat to my friend, Tod, who translated most of the Japanese descriptions. We had fun with some of them, and used executive licence on more than one occasion. So, the list is below. If you want some more intro and the Japanese, it is here and the original festival announcement is here:

EASY-DRINKING SESSION BEERS

1. John Smith Extra Smooth Bitter, 3.8%.
World's no. 1 selling English ale with creamy head, bitter mouthfeel, and fruity aftertaste.

2. Kilkenny Irish Red Ale, 4.4%
Kilkenny is named after the town in the suburbs of Dublin in Ireland in which it was originally made, in a church no less.

3. Bass Pale Ale, 5.1%
Characteristically thick yet refreshing flavor from top fermentation, fine head, and abundance of rich, spicy aroma and flavors. (This is Bass we are talking about, right? Ed.)

4. Hideji Beer Smoking Mole Ale, 4.2%
Portrayed as a jolly mole puffing on a fat cigar, this ale has a rich taste and aroma. Made with fresh hops and malt, the flavor and aroma mellow after a month of conditioning. (methinks somebody’s been reading Wind in the Willows, Ed.)

5. Iwate Kura Red Ale, 5%
A deep reddish-brown Scotch ale. With a distinctive slight sweetness, this is a lightly bitter beer that goes down easily.

6. Baird Beer's The Professor Munchner Dunkel, 4.9%
This classic dark lager is brewed in the tradition of Munich Dunkel lager beers and is inspired by a Professor of German history who loves passionately the city of Munich. Brewed with German Munich, Pilsner, Vienna, Carared and Melanoidan malts.

7. Baeren Bitter, 4.5%
A florid hop aroma, easygoing mouthfeel and refreshing aftertaste make this an authentic English beer. The only light ale brewed in Baeren (i.e., Baeren, Morioka, Ed.).

8. Sanktgallen Pale Ale

A refreshing beer with a strong hop flavor. A product of the American craft beer boom, American pale ales are a new style enjoyed by beer enthusiasts around the world. Their hallmark is the use of potent American hops and strong bitterness.

9. Hakusekikan Pale Ale, 5
A beermaker's beer, with an attendant bitterness. The blend of malts gives this beer a spicy body and a judicious bitterness to whet the appetite.

10. Ishikawa Pale Ale, 5%

A top-fermenting beer with a distinctive fruity aroma.

11. Shonan Beer Altbier, 5%

Altbier is a dark-colored style that originates in Düsseldorf. Evocative of a Shonan sunset, this top-fermented beer has a fruity aroma and light taste. It makes a great accompaniment to a meal.

12. Aizu Beer Amber Ale, 4.5%
This amber ale features a restrained hop bitterness, a malt sweetness and a refreshing aftertaste.


MID STRENGTH, FULLER-FLAVORED BEERS

13. Weihenstephan Hefeweissbier Dunkel, 5.3%
From the famous state-owned Bavarian brewery. Although it is the longest continuously-operating brewery in the world, the equipment is state of the art. This beer is a darker, maltier version of the typically fruity Weizen style.

14. Shigakougen IPA, 6%
With forthright hop aroma and bitterness, this beer has a flavorful impact that makes it a perfect match for spicy foods. Highly distinctive and habit-forming.

15. Leffe Brune, 6.5%
Roast malt gives this beer its deep brown color. It is full-bodied with a delicate fruity aroma.

16. Fujizakura Rauchbier, 5.5%
Rauchbier, or "smoked beer," is the local specialty of Bamberg, Germany. The malt is smoked during kilning to give this beer its distinctive flavor and aroma.

17. Nest Beer Japanese Classic Ale, 6%

An IPA fermented in cedar barrels for export to the United States, this beer is modeled on the first Japanese beer, brewed in 1853.

18. Liefmans Oud Bruin (Belgian Brown Ale), 6%
Fermented in open vats with a yeast strain passed down from the Rodenbach brewery.

19. Ozeno Yukidoke Brown Wiezen, 5
This elegant brown beer made from roasted wheat malt and dark barley malt has a rich, mellow flavor and a smoky aroma of spices.

20. Minami Shinshu IPA, 6
Made at the Komagatake brewery with the snowmelts of the Japan Alps. The generous use of aromatic hops lends it a refreshing bitterness.

21. Echigo IPA
A markedly bitter beer made with large amounts of hops.

22. Ishikawa Munich Dark Lager, 5%
Blackish brown in color, this is a bottom-fermenting (lager type) beer of rich flavor.

23. Swan Lake Brown Ale, 5%
A pleasant, refreshing beer with mellow malt notes and citrus highlights from its American hops.

24. Aizu Beer Beethoven Marzen, 6%
In late 2004 the Aizu Symphony Orchestra celebrated the tenth anniversary of the local Fugado Hall with a rendition of Beethoven's Ninth, and the Minami Aizu Brewery celebrated that performance with this Marzen, a Viennese dark lager. Originally a limited edition beer, it proved so popular it was added to the regular product line.

STRONG, ROBUST BEERS FOR THE FIRESIDE

25. Minoh Double IPA, 9%
A seasonal beer of limited availability. Offering more than a bitter flavor, this double IPA should be savored at length for its depth and aroma.

26. Fujizakura Doppelbock, 8%
Made with twice as much malt as regular beers and given a long lagering, this full-bodied Doppelbock has a good balance of sweetness, bitterness and fragrance.

27. Nest Beer Belgian Dark Strong, 8%
This high-alcohol XH (extra high) beer is matured two months in oak barrels.

28. Queue de Charrue Bruin (Belgian Red Ale), 5.4%
A Belgian red ale produced at the Verhaeghe brewery, this beer is fermented for a little under one year in the best oak barrels to lend it a distinctive light sourness and grape-like sweetness.

29. St.Bernardus Abt 12, 10%
The Sixtus Abbey beers from Belgium were until 1992 brewed under license from the Trappist monastery St. Sixtus, brewer of Westvleteren Abt, which is considered the best beer in the world. The beers formerly brewed under license are now sold simply as St. Bernados, and this Abt 12 version has dark chocolate and aniseed flavors with mild roastiness in superb balance.

30. Rogue Dead Guy Ale, 6.5%
Silver medalist at the 2005 World Beer Championships, this superb example of a German Maibock is made with Rogue's own PacMan yeast and has a bitterness level of 40 IBUs. (Editorial Note: IBUs: means international bittering units. Most mass lagers have IBUs of 11 to 14, 25 is considered hoppy, 40 is somewhat bitter, but some IPAs and other bitter beers come in at 60+, while extreme beers can be 80+.)

Monday, April 9, 2007

Brown Beer List

As I mentioned a couple of posts back, the Black Lion in Meguro is having a brown beer festival this coming weekend, the 14th and 15th April. I'll be helping out on the afternoon of the 15th for a few hours. Below is a full list of the 30 beers that will be available over the two days, descriptions in Japanese. The beers have been grouped by organizer Tomo into suggested first beers, second beers, or third beers -- like you're only going to have three?! I have offered in brackets an alternative way of thinking of the beers .

The festival runs from 12 noon each day until 3 am the next day. (Plenty of time to pace yourself through all 30 beers!) Beer is available by the pint or half pint. Note that advance purchase tickets will be available at a slight discount (see earlier post for details).

First beers of a session (lighter, easy drinking session beers)
1.ジョンスミスビター /John Smith Extra Smooth Bitter /3.8%
イギリスを代表する世界売上No.1エール滑らかな泡とビターな舌触りとフルーティーな後味が魅力。

2.キルケニーアイリシュレッドエール /Kilkenny Irish Red Ale/ 4.4%
キルケニーとは、アイルランドのダブリンの郊外にある町の名前で、その町の教会で造られていたビールです。

3.バスペールエール/Bass Pale Ale/5.1%
上面発酵独特のコクとキレ、繊細な泡たち、香ばしい深い香り。その豊かな味わいと風味をお楽しみ下さい。

4.ひでじスモーキングエール/Hideji Beer Smoking Mole Ale/4.2%
葉巻をくわえた陽気な葉巻をくわえた陽気なもぐらがイメージのコクと香りのエール。造りたてはフレッシュホップとモルトの香り、1ヶ月後には芳醇さを味わえる変化するエール。

5.世嬉の一レッドエール/Sekinoichi Red Ale/5%
スコットランドタイプのビールです。深みのある赤褐色が特徴のビールです。ほのかな甘味が特徴。にがみは少なめで飲みやすいビールです。

6.ベアードビール「ザ・プロフェッサー」ミュンヘンデュンケル/Baird Beer's The Professor Munich Dunkel/4.9%
ザ・プロフェッサー ミュンヘンデュンケルは、ドイツ産のミュンヘン、ピルスナー、ウィーン、キャラード等のモルトを使用し醸造した。

7.ベアレンビター/Baeren Bitter/4.5%
華やかなホップの香り、軽やかな口当たりと後口に来る爽やかな苦味、本場イギリスの味わいをお楽しみいただけます。ベアレン唯一のライト・エール

8.サンクトガーレンペールエール/Sanktgallen Pale Ale
強いホップフレーバーと香りの爽やかなビール。 アメリカンペールエールは、アメリカのクラフトビールブームの中で生まれ、世界中のビールファンに支持されている新しいスタイルで、強力なアメリカンホップのキャラクターと強い苦味が特徴です。

9.博石館ペールエール/Hakusekikan Pale Ale/5%
苦味を効かせたビール通のためのビール。麦芽のブレンドによって醸される香ばしいコクと風味に加えほどよく効いた苦みが食欲をかき立ててくれます

10.多摩の恵ペールエール/Ishikawa Pale Ale/5%
フルーティーな香りが特徴の上面発酵ビール

11.湘南ビールアルト/Shonan Beer Altbier/5%
ドイツのデュッセルドルフで発展した濃色ビール。湘南の夕陽をイメージした上面発酵ビールでフルーティーな香り、ライトな飲み口で食中酒としてもおすすめです。

12.会津麦酒アンバーエール/Aizu Beer Amber Ale/4.5%
琥珀色をしたアンバーエール。ホップの苦みを抑え、モルトの甘みと後口の味わいをすっきりと出しています。特に女性に大人気です。

Second beers of a session (mid strength, fuller-flavored beers)
13.ヴァイエンシュテファンヘフェウ゛ァイスドゥンケル/Weihenstephan Hefeweissbier Dunkel/5.3%
ドイツ南部にあるバイエルン州政府に属しており、現存する最も古いビール製造社でありながら最新の設備を所有しております。

14.志賀高原インディアンペールエール/Shigakougen IPA/6%
ホップの香りと苦みが強めの、インパクトのある味わいは、スパイシーな料理等との相性も良好。個性がありながらも癖になる味わいです。

15.レフブラウン/Leffe Brune/6.5%
焙煎したモルトを使用しているため深い茶色をしています。フルボディーでほのかにフルーツの香りが漂います。

16.富士桜高原麦酒ラオホ/Fujizakura Rauchbier/5.5%
ドイツのバンベルグ特産のビールです。ラオホとは“薫煙”という意味です。麦芽を乾燥させるときにスモークしますので、独特の香りと味を楽しめます。

17.ネストジャパニーズ・クラシック・エール/Nest Beer Japanese Classic Ale/6%
1853年に醸造された日本最初のビールをイメージして造った、アメリカ輸出用の杉樽熟成IPAです。

18.リーフマンス・オード・ブラウン(ベルジャンブラウンエール)/Liefmans Oud Bruin (Belgian Brown Ale)/6%
ローデンバッハ醸造所から譲り受けた酵母を培養し、開放式の発酵釜にて醸造される

19.オゼノユキドケブラウンバイツェン/Ozeno Yukidoke Brown Wiezen/5%
小麦麦芽と焙煎した濃色大麦麦芽を使った気品あるブラウン色のビール。まろやかでコクのある味とローストの香ばしい香りをお楽しみください。

20.南信州インディアンペールエール/Minami Shinshu IPA/6%
アルプスの雪解け水から生まれました。駒ケ岳醸造所で醸造される仲間たちですアロマホップを豊富に使用しすっきりした苦味が特徴 

21.エチゴインディアンペールエール/Echigo IPA
大量のホップを使用した苦味の強いビール

22.多摩の恵ミュンヘナーダーク/Ishikawa Munich Dark Lager/5%
黒褐色でコクのある下面発酵ビール

23.スワンレイクブラウンエール/Swan Lake Brown Ale/5%
芳醇なモルトの風味が感じられ、アメリカンホップによる柑橘系の香りと爽やかな苦味が心地の良い飲料感を演出します。

24.会津麦酒ベートベン/Aizu Beer Beethoven Marzen/6%
会 津風雅堂開館10周年を記念して2004年11月に開催された会津市民交響楽団の第九演奏会を祝して醸造されたウィン風ダークラガー(メルツェン)。当初 は限定醸造品でしたが、あまりに評判が良いのでラインナップに加えました。フルーティーな香味とホップがもたらす喉越しの良さが特徴で、何杯でもするする と飲めてしまいます。アルコール分はやや高めですが、酔い心地、酔い覚めとも大変すっきりと爽やかです。

Third beers of a session (strong, robust beers for the fireside)
25.箕面ダブルIPA/Minoh Double IPA/ 9%
期間限定醸造のシーズナルビールです。DOUBLE IPAはただ苦いだけではなく、深みと香りも楽しんでいただける自信作です。じっくり味わってください。

26.富士桜高原麦酒桜ボック/Fujizakura Doppelbock/8%
通常のビールの約2倍の麦芽を使用し、長期熟成させたこのビールは、ドイツではドッペルボック(ダブルボック)と呼ばれ、甘み・苦味・香りのバランスがとれたフルボディーのビールです。

27.ネストベ゛ルジャン・ダーク・ストロング/Nest Beer Belgian Dark Strong/8%
長期熟成用高アルコールタイプのXH(エキストラ・ハイ)を、オーク樽で2ヶ月間熟成させました

28.クー・デ・シャルル・ブラウン(ベルジャンレッドビール)/Queue de Charrue Bruin (Belgian Red Ale)/5.4%
ヴェルハーゲ醸造所にて醸造されるベルジャン・レッドビールの最高傑作オーク樽にて1年弱発酵をさせ、独特の酸味と葡萄のような甘みを持つ。

29.セント・ベルナルデュス アブト/St.Bernardus Abbott/10%
世 界一のビールとして知られる「ウエストフレテレン アブト」を醸造する「セント・シクステュス修道院」よりライセンスを与えられ、ベルギー初の修道院ビール「セント・シクステュス」が醸造された。その中で も「アブト」は修道院長を意味し、最高級品。契約の終了した今でも世界一の味わいは受け継がれ、ウエストフレテレンにはない樽生も存在する。要は世界一う まい?

30.ローグデッドガイエール/Rogue Dead Guy Ale/6.5%
2005年ワールドビールチャンピオン シップ銀賞の逸品、ドイツスタイルの最良のボックタイプでこの醸造所独自の“PacMan”という酵母を使用、IBU(ホップによる苦味)は30ありま す。 (Note: I would suggest this belongs in the "second beer" category.)

Tuesday, April 3, 2007

Me three!

Stephen Beaumont gives the copy cat syndrome of Irish/British bars a spray. Couldn't agree more. It is exactly the same here in Japan. Bar managers tend to be an unimaginative lot not especially interested in promoting local craft beer. They don't know much about it, it requires too much hard work, the margins are lower and/or over-the-counter prices are higher, and they are worried about wasting valuable tap space on a potentially slow-moving product. Much easier and safer to go with the Guinness, Kilkenny, Bass triumvarate.

But times have changed and are changing still. Of course, like anywhere, there are dedicated craft beer bars like Popeye, Ushi-Tora, and Kura Kura all doing their bit for Japanese craft beer. But it is the neighbourhood and big chain English/Irish pubs that really need to have a good hard think about themselves. As Stan Heironymous mentions in his response to Stephen's post, places that offer something a bit interesting and surpising are the ones who will differentiate themselves and attract those customers who are looking for that something more.

One minor problem here in Japan is the up and down quality of the craft beer breweries. You really do need to be careful and discerning about what you select to put on offer. Despite there being probably hundreds of small breweries, you could count on a butcher's hand the number that have a reputation for reliably producing remarkable beer. So it is certainly a bit of a tough old job for the average bar manager to sort through the chaff to find something worthy of showcasing as a "beer de jour". And aside from the bar's considerations, it will also be counterproductive to the craft beer industry if crap "ji-biiru" from one of the many clueless operators is set up as a representative of what craft beer is all about.

Nevertheless, in this competitive market, I predict that more pubs are going to see the light and start offering more and more unusual or guest beers. Yona Yona has gradually penetrated the market and even comes in a hand pumped format at a number of places. A couple of places have even entered into arrangements with breweries to offer a house ale. These are promising signs of a desire to differentiate.

Homebrew Hanami

Hanami ostensibly means "flower viewing" in Japanese. But it really means waiting for all the sakura to bloom so that all and sundry can pour into the parks with the perfect excuse to eat and drink to excess and behave abominably.

BEERS organised a hanami in Yoyogi Park for the second year in a row. Last year a few of us brought a few bottles of homebrew. Somehow this year it turned into a bit of an extravaganza with five 11-L party kegs of beer that was as good as any you'd find in any brewpub. There was a superbly crafted ordinary bitter and biere de garde by anonymous brew guru #1, a Hefeweizen and a Helles lager by anonymous up and coming all-grain brew guru #2, and a low carbonated APA by yours truly and my trusty brewing partner, the anonymous man in the psychodelic T-shirt. That's me with my APA in the photo (cute gloves huh?). I don't know how Hymie the android got admitted, but being a robot he probably didn't drink much. It was a very fun, very cool event (in more ways than one) drinking some great home-made craft beer. I'm already looking forward to next year!

And a big shout out to Rei-chan for the photo!

Friday, March 23, 2007

Real Ale at BEERS

Last night's monthly BEERS meeting presented members with a "real" treat in the form of two familiar craft beers served as real ale by gravity pour. The beers were accompanied by the brewer, Toshi Ishii from Ya-ho brewing in Karuizawa, Nagano Prefecture. Toshi used to work at Stone Brewing in California. He gave us a talk about real ale and talked a little about the two beers. As an added "treat", the casks in which the beers were presented were oak pins (4.5 UK gallons) without any inner liner (more on this later).

Beer number one was Yona Yona, familiar to most if not all beer fans in Japan. An American pale ale style, it was dry hopped in the cask. With the absence of carbonation, the beer was beautifully smooth and the floral Cascade hop character was a delight as it danced upon a slightly sweet, malt stage.

Beer number two was Ya-ho's Tokyo Black Ale, a classic example of the porter style that was popular among London's working classes in the 19th century and from which stout evolved. The Tokyo Black had a slightly higher amount of carbonation than the Yona Yona, providing a slight carbonic tickle on the tongue, but it was still very much a real ale. Tokyo Black is a superb beer to drink as real ale. It is rich and smooth and roasty, but with very rounded corners and none of the burnt, dry flavor typical of stout. (A tip when buying Tokyo Black Ale in the can is to pour it a few minutes before drinking. Carefully stir with a spoon or swirl the glass to release excess CO2 and allow it to warm to around 12 degrees C. The resulting taste experience will be vastly superior to an over-chilled, fully-carbonated version). Bryan Harrel in Brews News #75 described it as: "Near black, opaque, dark tan short-lived head. Faint subdued aromas of dried fruit, sweet coffee and chocolate cake. Smooth mouthfeel with rich, dark malt flavors, but very little deep roast bitterness. A session ale for dark-beer lovers." He gave it four stars out of five. As real ale it gets an easy five, if not six!

Some questions during the presentation led to a lot of discussion about packaging craft beer in bottles versus cans, and whether there is any difference. The discussion seemed to lurch away from real ale and led me to ask Toshi what the benefit is of conditioning real ales in wood compared to the more common stainless steel casks that are common in the UK. And would any differences become more evident over time? The answer seemed to be that it was, er, too difficult to answer. So perhaps the benefit is mainly aesthetic and spiritual rather than for any tangible taste difference. Certainly oak casks are much more expensive and the beer in them is more difficult to maintain in good condition in the cellar, so if tangible taste benefits are so difficult to identify, then it is no wonder that Yona Yona is the only brewery in Japan with wooden casks, and that even in the UK there are only eight breweries with wooden casks. In short, it is for the purists, and even then, as Toshi intimated, reserved for special occasions like beer shows (and BEERS meetings!)

Rob Barrow, a craft beer expert from the UK, was also in attendance and shared some insights into the real ale scene (did somebody mention CAMRA) in the old dart. We heard about how CAMRA are very particular about what is and isn't considered kosher in the world of real ale. They frown upon cask breathers, a device that allows CO2 or a cellar mix (CO2 + N2) to replace drawn off beer in the cask and thus protect the remaining beer from oxidation. They are also agin sparklers, a little plastic device that is inserted into the pouring spout to inrease head formation by knocking CO2 out of solution (and flavour with it). The session was rounded out by some informal social mingling until the casks were all-too-soon emptied.

After the meeting, Tod, Jim and I popped into Towers near Tokyo station, a "hole-in-the-wall" bar that, in its own small way, champions craft beer. An ambition we should all hold. We tried a regular hand pumped "real ale" Yona Yona and found it quite insipid compared to its dry-hopped sibling we had just been drinking. After some lively banter with the other patrons (well, one in particular), we sauntered off into the night, satisfied with our evening of drinking good beer.

Monday, March 19, 2007

Red Miso Lager Beer

Miso paste in a beer? Red miso paste? Apparently the Morita Kinshachi Beer Co. Ltd of Nagoya thinks it is a fair and proper thing to foist upon the public. I saw it in the Foodshow (basement level) liquor section of the Tokyu Department Store at Shibuya Station yesterday, first thought phht, and finally decided, oh what the hell, I've just run a marathon, I might as well give this a try. I was not expecting much though, as other attempts by Japanese craft brewers to incorporate indiginous ingredients with their brews have left me a little less than whelmed.

Tasting notes
Appearance was a very dark brown transluscent colour with ruby hints. Off-white head and subdued carbonation.
Aroma was a rich prune-like vinous aroma. Nothing really punched me in the nose and shouted "aka miso" at me. No hop aroma.
Fairly clean lightish body at first, very malty and assertively rich and meaty in the back palate. But still no standout flavour that would make you say, "hey, red miso!" At 6% abv, I basically would put this down as a pretty standard, actually quite good, Bock beer. I wasn't knocked out at the first sip, but by the last I could have easily opened another bottle.
Overall score 7.5/10. (maybe another 0.5 for the label).

Monday, March 12, 2007

Ya-ho Brewing Bier de Garde

I think this must almost be a first among Japanese breweries, a Bier de Garde! The Karuizuwa-based Ya-Ho Brewing Company, makers of the deliciously American hopped Yona Yona, have released several seasonals at different times. I am especially fond of their India pale ale, but a Scotch ale they produce is also a beautiful beer. So when I was browsing the craft beer section of the basement-level Foodshow beneath Shibuya station yesterday, this new color scheme can caught my eye. "Ho ho, what have Ya-Ho produced now?" I asked myself. Upon closer scrutiny of the lable I was surprised to see the words Biere de Garde pop out at me. "Wow, that's brave!" I thought to myself. "Fancy going to market with something as obscure as that!"

But head brewer Ishii Toshi is not exactly known for a lack of willingness to challenge the Japanese craft beer market with new beer. He has been championing real ale for several years now, after all.

Biere de Garde is a beer style from northern France. The name translates as "beer to keep". It is usually robustly malty, not lacking in hop flavour, and is said to have a musty, earthy character that can be difficult to replicate when brewed with conventional modern brewing practises. This one was pretty much true to this description. A rich golden color, certainly a very full caramelly malt profile with some subdued but noticeable noble hops rounding out the flavour. But wait, there is a little more. A faintly earthy breadiness. Wow, Ishii-san has pretty much nailed this style. It'd be interesting to track down a bottle of Jenlain and drink them side by side. A robust lager-ish beer at 6% abv, this would stand up to some good hearty food. Highly recommended!

Sunday, March 11, 2007

Brown Lion, Brown Beer














A pub in my neighbourhood called the Black Lion has been running a three-part series of mini beer festivals. The first one was titled "Black, Lion Black Beer", the second "White Lion, White Beer," and the third one, scheduled for April 14 & 15 '07, will be called "Brown Lion, Brown Beer".

I reviewed the White Beer fest in the March issue of Brews News (coming to this link soon). My bottom line conclusion was that I strongly support the idea of these small-scale, themed beer festivals. Tomo at the Black Lion has put together good selections of Japanese craft brews and imported beers allowing us to sample Japanese craft beers alongside examples of the style originating from their "home" province. For example, at the "white" day, classic German hefewizens from Germany beside locally-produced examples (but he missed an opportunity to compare Hitachino Nest White Ale with the Celis White and St. Bernado's White that the had on tap -- never mind, there is always room for improvement).

I hope the Black Lion or similar venues take up Tomo's very innovative and creative foray into the promotion of good beer in Japan. Every little bit helps push back the dark shroud of Sapasakirisun that hangs over the land. A key bit of information is that Tomo is offering a price saving for advance ticket purchases up until the 13th April: 3 x half pints for 1300 yen (1500 yen on the day) or 3 x pints for 2500 yen (2700 yen on the day).

Thursday, March 8, 2007

Brews News

Brews News is a monthly Internet newsletter about beer in Japan that appears on the popular Tokyo Food Page. Brews News is the labor of love of long-term Tokyo resident, writer, translator, beer & sake expert, and Tokyo correspondent for the Celebrator beer magazine, Bryan Harrell. Six years and 74 issues strong, the newsletter has long been about the only source of English information about craft beer in Japan. It has been responsible for promoting and educating foreigners in Japan about Japanese craft beer and keeping us informed of upcoming events through Bryan's many contacts with the craft brewing and retailing industries.

The existence of BEERS, and now perhaps this blog, has added to the sources of information about craft beer in Japan. But in no way do these alternative sources compete; I intend that this blog will be complemetary to Brews News, and in fact hope that Bryan and others will join as guest or regular co-bloggers from time to time. This blog is more a personal view of the Japanese craft beer world and my/our interactions with it. Do check out Brews News and find the link to subscribe to the email list so that you may receive new issues directly to your inbox prior to them hitting the web page.

BEERS

BEERS stands for "Beer Enjoyment, Education and Research Society". A rather clever acronym for a Tokyo-based English-speaking group whose mission is to promote the appreciation, knowledge and enjoyment of good beer. The group normally meets the third Tuesday of each month in good-beer bars or other convenient locations in and close to central Tokyo. Founder and dynamo behind the group is Canadian Tim Eustace. Tim maintains an email list for communicating with members. For more information or to join the list, email Tim at tokyobeers at yahoo dot co dot jp.

Upcoming events include a talk about (and sampling of) real ale by Yona Yona's creator, Toshii Ishi and a hanami party in Yoyogi park featuring home-brewed craft beer created by various BEERS members.

Wednesday, March 7, 2007

Kickoff post

Another day, another blogger.

Actually, I am not a new blogger as I already have a running blog and an unused marketing blog. But besides running, my other preoccupation in life is beer. I have recently started reading some other beer blogs, and I suddenly thought, hey why not a beer blog from my part of the world, Japan?

I love drinking beer, though try not to do it to excess, and I also love brewing it. But we are not talking about insipid mass-produced lagers here. We are talking flavorsome beer, craft beer, traditional beer, artisanal beer, rich hoppy ales and tangy lagers. Belgian beauties, English ales, and American experimentals. Beer with a bite. Beverages to be savoured by the fire or enjoyed with a fine meal.

Since I live in Japan, this blog is going to be mainly about the world of craft beer as viewed from the perspective of a foreigner living in Japan. I'll write about Japanese craft breweries, their brewers, and their beers. I will write about my own brewing exploits (currently on a home scale, but who knows what the future holds). I'll talk about beer events that I attend and will try to post news of other beer events that I happen to hear about. I'll also talk about the Japan craft beer industry-- trends, perspectives, comparisons with craft beer industries in other climes. And, well, just about anything else that might come along. This is a blog after all, and it is sure to evolve. It may blossom and prosper, or whither like old hops neglected on the bine. Let us see shall we? So with no further ado, on with the show...